As many know, the Edo period was booming with new trends created and led by famous kabuki actors and courtesans. Patterns that gained popularity that are originally crests of these famous actors are called ‘Yakusha-mon’, meaning ‘actor crest’, while existing patterns made popular by these actors are often named after the actors but are not yakusha-mon. Yakusha-mon are quite similar to merchandise in the present day, often printed on handkerchiefs (or tenugui) and other items for fans.
In this article we’ll look into a few of the most popular yakusha-mon and patterns that took Edo by storm.
Keywords from this Article
Kabuki
classical Japanese theatre performed by men
Yakusha-mon
Hanjimono
Kosode
Bunka Era
Patterns:
Kamawanu 鎌輪ぬ
This pattern is the possibly the most famous example of a "hanjimono', which are illustrated puzzles that gained popularity amongst commoners in the Edo period. These consist of small illustrations that need to be deciphered to understand its meaning. In this case, the word 'kamawanu' with the kanji 構わぬ roughly translating to 'i dont mind', is illustrated through a sickle which is pronounced 'kama', and a ring which is pronounced 'wa' and the hiragana 'nu' to create 'kamawanu'. The pattern is named 鎌輪ぬ (the kanji for sickle and ring) whereas the phrase 'I don't mind', has a different kanji.
This pattern was originally used by townsmen in the Genroku period (1688-1704) and was paired with the catchphrase 'through fire and water we dive to help the weak', though its popularity came later on by the kabuki actor Ichikawa Danjūrō VII (1791-1859).
Yokikotokiku 斧琴菊
This pattern is also a 'hanjimono' and means 'listen to good things'; The illustration being an axe, Japanese harp bridge (koto) and chrysanthemum. The double meaning in this hanjimono would be 'yoki' meaning 'axe' as well as 'good', 'koto' meaning 'Japanese harp' and 'thing', and 'kiku' meaning 'chrysanthemum' and 'listen'.
This pattern, much like the 'kamawanu' pattern existed before its rise to popularity. This pattern is seen in kosode as early as the Early Edo period, and was repopularised in the Bunka Era (1804-1814) and eventually used as a yakusha-mon by kabuki actor Onoe Kikugorō to compete with Ichikawa Danjūrō, the actor that used 'kamawanu'.
Ichimatsu 市松
The ichimatsu pattern is a simple checkered pattern, which you may recognise from a recent popular anime.
This pattern is thought to date all the way back to the Kofun period (300 to 538 AD) as ‘haniwa’ (terracotta figures) have been found with the Ichimatsu pattern for its clothing.
The original name for this pattern was ‘ishidatami’, translating to stone tatami or pavement, as they resembled the placement of pavement stones. However, in the mid-Edo period, a kabuki actor named Sanogawa Ichimatsu wore this pattern on a hakama, leading to a massive Ichimatsu boom mostly amongst the women of Edo.
Many traditional Japanese patterns are used to convey a message or hope which is suited for the outfit or occasion. The never-ending Ichimatsu pattern symbolizes prosperity, eternity, and development, and for instance could be used to hope for business expansion or the prosperity of descendants.
Benkei-Goshi 弁慶格子
This pattern would be considered a gingham checkered pattern in English, but benkei goshi and gingham check do not share its origin. There are many types of checkered patterns popular in the Edo period that also exist in the Western world, such as the 千鳥格子 (chidori-goshi) or houndstooth and 越格子(koshi-goushi) or glen checks seen in Scottish weaving, which interestingly reveals similarities between humanity in such different cultures and communities.
The benkei goshi gained popularity from a Kabuki performance where a character named Benkei wore this pattern, and was subsequently named after it.
Shikan-jima 芝翫縞
The Shikan-jima (jima meaning stripe) is a pattern consisting of four stripes and a chain of connected cauldron handles.
The pattern gained popularity in the Bunka era (1814) when Nakamura Utaemon III with the stage name Shikan, wore this pattern in a performance.
The 'shi' in shikan refers to the four (shi) stripes and the 'kan' refers to the handles, which are called 'kanawa'.
Mini Knowledge
Kabuki actors and courtesans were not only leading trendsetters in terms of patterns, but with all aspects of fashion. Numerous traditional colours are named after actors, including rokōcha, danjūrōcha (same actor as the kamawanu pattern), baikōcha, and shikancha (same actor as the shikan-jima).
Even new ways of tieing obi are often invented or spread through these actors.
The otaiko-musubi, which is the default obi-musubi (way of tieing an obi) in present days was invented by a geisha at the end of the Edo period; although not an actor or courtesan, they were also part of leading fashion trends in this period.
Edo to Now
In both the Edo period and in modern days, performers, from celebrities to kabuki actors, are often times leading fashion trends. It seems to be that no matter the century or place, people love to indulge in and copy fictional worlds. Whether it be a tenugui (handkerchief) with the family crest of a kabuki actor, or a sticker of your favourite bands logo, there is an undeniable similarity that brings us closer to understanding people throughout history.